insider tips
Our family has been coming to the Big Island since the early 1990s,
so we’ve created our best tips and a list of our favorite beaches for you to enjoy.
Please don’t hesitate to contact us with questions.
We’d love to hear your favorite finds and suggestions as well!
Where to see sea turtles, dolphins and whales
Whale watching season is typically mid-December through mid-April, when humpback whales seek out Hawaii’s warm waters for calving. Most marine tours claim some whale-watching opportunity, but we’ve found it’s mostly luck and vigilance — and no guarantees.
Sea turtles are plentiful and we never go a trip without seeing these gentle friends. Easiest places to spot them are on the beach south of A-bay and Lava Lava Beach Club; at the lagoon entrance to the Hilton Waikoloa Beach Resort; at the Fairmont Orchid lagoon; and on the east side of the bay at 49 Black Sand Beach. Remember, you must give them space and never touch them.
Dolphin tours are no longer allowed, although some morning snorkel boats ignore this law. Watch for spinner dolphins in the early morning near South Kohala beaches ranging from A-bay to Spencer Beach. You may be able to get closer with a SUP or kayak, but give them space please.
Best snorkeling spots
We’re obsessed with snorkeling, and you’ll likely find all the gear your family needs (even water noodles and life jackets) in our beach toy closet. Here are our favorite places to snorkel within 10-20 minutes of the condo.
For much, much more, check out the “Snorkel Hawaii” book in the condo, which details the wonderful fish and all of the locations around the Big Island with details on entry/exit points, what you’ll see, and likely conditions.
49 Black Sand Beach — Uncrowded, well-preserved coral, no rock danger, many large schools of fish and a few sea turtles. We’ve seen eel, octopus and dolphins here too. Don’t forget your water shoes as the sand is a bit coarse and entry rocky.
Beach 69 — Varied corals, but you need to swim nearer to rocks for best viewing. Occasionally cloudy. Lots of shade (though the beach is small and can get crowded).
Mahu Kona — An abandoned harbor, there is no beach and just a (very) slippery ladder into the water. Great coral and fish, plus the ocean floor has a massive sunken propeller and boat chain with links the size of dinner plates. Do not attempt on high surf days because entry/exit can be dangerous.
A-bay — Lots of coral around this well-protected bay that’s a short walk from the condo. It can occasionally get cloudy, and watch out for watercraft and surf fishermen on the north end of the bay.
Fairmont Orchid — Swim past the lagoon walls to an initially shallow area with damaged coral, but beyond that a much deeper and richer set of marine life.
Where to golf
Waikoloa Beach Golf — Play the King’s Nine, Beach Nine, or Lake Nine. These three 9-hole courses can be played in any combination, each about par 35. Hit range balls near the clubhouse and try the bacon-forward Mai Grille.
Makani — The former Big Island Country Club, this up-island course on the shoulder of Hualalai is a hidden gem, taking you through a lush, tropical landscape and tons of wildlife. Our favorite.
Mauna Kea Beach — Pricey and pristine course with eye-popping waterside holes. Nene geese are everywhere.
Mauna Lani — Two regulation courses and a fast, 9-hole course that’s great for casual fun.
Tip: Tee off after noon or 1 p.m. and you’ll often be able to save big on green’s fees. If you’re golfing with kids or teens, ask about family specials (we love courses where we can “pay their age”).
Miscellaneous
The new saddle road from Kona to Hilo makes going to the east side of the island much easier. There are fewer beaches and it’s often rainy, so check the forecast first. Check out the waterfalls, boutiques and markets.
The Hawaii Volcanoes National Park has many hikes with some steam holes. Generally, if there’s an active eruption, you can’t get close enough to see it. We’ve tried frequently with no success.
The observatory on Mauna Loa requires a 4WD to get there (most rental cars are not permitted) and there are age limits on tours.
Favorite place to coffee & chill: Kona Joe Coffee. It’s south of Kona on Mamalahoa Highway. Wonderful view down the mountain and you can just hang out under the trees. Great coffee too.
secret beaches
Our favorite beaches can be tough to access.
This is by design: while Hawaii mandates all beaches be public,
resorts do their best to make that public access limited and hard to find.
Here are our insider tips to fully enjoy these gems.
49 Black Sand Beach
What: Salt and pepper sand, slightly coarse with some rocks on entry. An uncrowded but somewhat steep beach surrounding an amazing bay. Hands down our favorite snorkel spot, depths ranging from 3-25 feet, unspoiled by people. This is where the snorkel cruises often tie up!
Amenities: Outdoor freshwater shower, foot wash, restrooms. Very little shade, so bring your beach umbrellas and chairs.
Where: Google maps, 12 min/ 6.7 miles. Just north on Hawaii 19, turn left on Mauna Lani Drive.
When: Arrive by 9:30 in high season; by 11 in the shoulder season. This beach is fairly new and undiscovered. Check in at the guard shack and ask to go to the beach. They will issue a pass and you’ll go through a gate, drive past multimillion-dollar houses, and end at the parking lot. The beach is past tennis courts and a restroom, a very short walk from the lot.
Know before you go:
Both the left and right-hand sides of the bay have amazing coral formations. Three sea turtles tend to hang out on the right, which can be cloudier water on rough days. On the left, you’ll find more varied terrain, and you can hang close to shore but go a long way around the left-hand side of the bay.
Learn the names of the most plentiful Hawaiian reef fish. You’ll recognize some from Finding Nemo, and some you’ll only see in Hawaii. At this beach, we love spotting the chameleon trumpetfish that can instantly change its look from stripes to spots, and from dark brown to pale white to blend with their environment.
Mauna Kea Beach
What: Our favorite sand beach on the island. Perfect crescent with soft white sand. Good boogey boarding/body surfing if surf is moderate (green, yellow and yellow/red flags), swimming, and snorkeling past the break on the sides of Kauna’oa Bay. Sometimes the surf can be too high (red flag); check out the webcam. Smooth entry and breaks fairly close to shore so you can stand/bob in the waves beyond the break.
Amenities: Nice changing rooms and outdoor freshwater showers. Limited shade (arrive early to claim space in the shade or bring umbrellas). BYO snacks and drinks.
Where: Google maps, 18 min/ 10.3 miles. Go north on Hawaii 19 to Mauna Kea Beach Drive. From the parking lot’s south end, follow the gated driveway down toward the water (short walk).
When: Arrive by 8 in high season; by 9 in the shoulder season. Check in at the guard shack and ask to go to the beach. They have about 20 parking spots available and when they are full, you won’t be allowed down (you’ll have to wait until someone leaves, and you can’t form a line). They typically issue a parking pass that you’ll feed into a gate to get into the parking area.
If you planned to go to this beach and it’s full, try Spencer Beach (swimming), Beach 69 (snorkeling), or Hapuna (boogey boarding) instead.
Fairmont Orchid lagoon
What: Soft sand and a small swimming beach that is well protected, with snorkeling past the break and frequent sea turtle sightings. You can rent SUPs and other beach toys there. There’s also a sand volleyball court and lovely hotel grounds.
Amenities: Washrooms around the Fairmont pool complex behind Brown’s restaurant. Freshwater shower by the lagoon. Only registered guests of the Fairmont may use the pools, but anyone can eat at Brown’s Beach House and other restaurants. There’s limited shade, but you aren’t allowed to use your umbrellas. You can bring your own beach chairs, however, and you won’t be allowed to sit on their resort-guests-only chairs.
Where: Google maps, 14 min/ 6 miles. Just north on Hawaii 19, turn left on Mauna Lani Drive.
When: Anytime. Park in the Fairmont parking lot (there is a gate but it opens automatically and typically no guard/charge), aiming to park as far from the hotel as possible, in the southeast corner of the lot. Once you park, near a gate in the SE corner, you’ll see a tiny sign that signals a paved path to the beach. Walk down this path to the lagoon beach shack, then make yourself comfortable on the sand but not on the beach chairs (attendants will chase you off if you’re not a resort guest). Occasionally, they bring in food trucks during lunch.
what to bring
Thinking about deep-sea fishing? We caught a 700-pound Blue Marlin (see the video on YouTube)! Don’t worry, we released her to give other fishermen a thrill. There are lots of charters available out of the Kona harbor.
Don’t miss Gypsea Gelato, which has a new location just a short stroll from the condo. Try their unusual and local flavors, including our favorite: Tom Kha (ginger, lemongrass, coconut and turmeric). Taste tests are free.
You won’t need much clothing — There’s a washer/dryer in the unit. Leave room in your suitcase to bring home Kona coffee, macadamia nuts, and artist’s market finds. Agricultural regulations govern bringing back some plants (check before you buy!), but things like jams and processed food (e.g. roasted nuts) from the farmer’s market are OK.
Two bathing suits — One to wear, one to hang dry. There’s a drying rack on the lanai.
Wetsuit/rash guard — Hawaii’s ocean water is nice and warm, and the pool is heated, but little ones tend to be prone to chill. Consider bringing a wetsuit for kids so they can enjoy the water longer. Adults and kids will appreciate a rash guard if they are boogey boarding.
Equipment — We have an assortment of pool toys, umbrellas, chairs, a beach tent and a cooler in the lanai closet that you are free to use, and we’re always adding to that stash. Consider bringing goggles for the saline pool if you like swimming laps. We have lots of snorkel gear and several boogey boards, but you can buy more adult snorkel gear and boogey boards at Costco (cheaper than renting if you plan to use it several times), and there’s a great selection of kids snorkel gear at Walmart.
Water shoes — Some beaches can be rocky or have coarse sand, and dark sand gets painfully hot by midday. There are also several pairs to borrow in the lanai beach gear closet.
Sun protection — Don’t ruin your vacation with a sunburn! Throw a hat and sun shirt in a beach bag if you go to a beach with limited shade. A rash guard worn while snorkeling will not only protect you, but also the reef fish but cutting down on the sunscreen needed. Be sure to use reef-safe sunscreen.
Cash — Especially if you’re heading to a paid-parking beach (such as Beach 69), having $5 in exact change is helpful.
what to buy
Hilo has several interesting boutiques; Waimea is a great alternative to Kona for groceries and dining out.
Check out the collection of strange and wonderful antiques stores on the road south of Kona toward Captain Cook.
Recommended for groceries:
Costco—north of Kona but south of the airport, has the selection you’d expect plus tons of island specialties (poke, kahlua pork, Hawaiian rolls), and great prices on food souvenirs like coffee and macadamia nuts. We always stop here right after we land, en route to the condo.
KTA Superstores Waikoloa Village—8 miles away (up the hill to Waikoloa Village), general grocery store with better prices than in Waikoloa Beach area.
Island Gourmet Markets in the Queen’s Marketplace—high-end deli, selection of all grocery necessities and souvenirs, walking distance (take a car if you want to buy more than a handful of items).
Whaler’s General Store in the King’s Shops—walking distance, more limited selection than Island Gourmet.
Foodland Farms Mauna Lani—5 miles away, pricier than Waikoloa Village.
Souvenirs:
Many farmers markets have a selection of island-made food treats such as lilikoi jelly and hot pepper sauce that you can take home to the mainland.
Try the Kona Farmers and Artists Market on Alii Drive, just south of downtown, Wednesdays-Sundays from 7a-4p. Look for hand-carved koa wood, jewelry, photography, soaps, and other handmade gifts. See more farmer’s markets here.
Visit Hamakua Macadamia Nuts, north on Hawaii 19, for wonderful samplers and food gifts in many flavors and products.
The King’s Shops includes high-end shopping (jewelry, Tommy Bahama, Tiffany, Michael Kors). The Queen’s Marketplace has more mid-market shops including Roxy, Crocs, Sunglass Hut and Starbucks, plus a food court on the east end for quick-service eating (the closest thing to fast food nearby).
Money-saving tips:
Pack light to avoid luggage fees. Plan to use the condo’s washer and dryer for laundry. Laundry detergent and dryer sheets provided.
Book your car rental months in advance, then periodically check to see if the price has dropped; if so, simply rebook. We like Costco’s travel site (which also allows 2 drivers at no extra charge) and Budget for car rental deals.
Cook at the condo using our extensive kitchen supplies. We always stock up on arrival at Costco for major groceries. Spices, oil, sugar, coffee, saran wrap and more are provided. There are six gas grills to fire up your favorite meal at the pavilion.
Hit up Happy Hour at the many restaurants within walking distance — call ahead to ensure availability. Our favorite is the Kuleana Rum Shack in the Queen’s marketplace.
Take advantage of the extensive beach supplies in our “toy closet” on the lanai to avoid the cost of renting or buying your own equipment. Use the provided coolers and blue ice in the freezer to pack your beach lunch.
Check Costco for gift cards for meals and activities. Popular choices like Umeke’s restaurant, manta ray night snorkel and deep-sea fishing offer gift cards there at about a 20% discount.
Make your own pool drinks with our great blender and use our large plastic cups. Take your own drinks to the beach to watch the sunset.
where to walk
here are some of our favorite destinations for a stroll
Check out farmer’s markets for activities including lei-making, hula lessons and tasting unique island-made treats.
The Hilton Waikoloa Village resort is home to a vast collection of Asian art and artifacts.
Hilo has some amazing, creative street art — stroll around downtown and don’t miss Cafe Pesto for lunch or dinner.
Take a drink and walk down to Waikoloa Beach and A-bay for lovely sunsets, plus stroll around the fish ponds and look for historical markers and plaques.
Walk the King’s Highway trail and spot petroglyphs at the Waikoloa Petroglyph Reserve. Enter from Waikoloa Beach Drive near the gas station (the path is marked from the sidewalk).
Walk the Waikoloa Anchialine Pond Preservation Area, just across Waikoloa Beach Drive from the condos. There is a sign at the sidewalk explaining its natural significance. From there, follow the sidewalk toward the Hilton along Waikoloa Beach Drive, turn off on the gravel path (goes around the Hilton parking lot) that’s hedged on both sides, and arrive on a coral-strewn beach just north of the Hilton that’s generally deserted. (Not for swimming.)
Cruise the canals on the boats at the Hilton Waikoloa Village resort. No admission fee; boats run approximately 2 p.m. to 10 p.m. Ride as long as you like, hop on and hop off.
Hilton Waikoloa Village is built around a lagoon, which is public (although the Hilton’s pools are not) — bring your snorkel gear and swim with sea turtles or under the waterfall. You can also rent paddleboats and stand-up paddleboards here. A great place to learn to snorkel because it’s so calm.
Enjoy the vast collection of Asian art and artifacts at the HWV resort while strolling through the grounds. The open-air hallway that goes north from the main lobby, parallel to the monorail tracks, has a tremendous wealth of things to look at. A great place to walk when it’s raining (rare in Waikoloa).
Don’t miss happy hour at Lava Lava Beach Club, great for sipping cocktails while enjoying the sand between your toes at this beachfront restaurant with great food. They often have live music or hula, plus tidepools and turtles.
Watch whales December through April from Buddha Point at the Hilton Waikoloa Village resort.
Enjoy live music and island-sourced pub grub and many beers on tap at the Tropics Ale House, just around the corner from the condo.
for kids & babies
A great play structure with a whale and a pirate ship, plus slides and swings, restrooms, and under good shade: Kamakana Playground south of Kona. Geckos abound.
Gear
Bring your stroller—there are tons of good walking paths that accommodate strollers, and there is an elevator to the condo.
The unit is not equipped with a high chair — consider bringing a foldable/packable seat.
The unit has a newer Graco pack’n’play, but please bring your own standard-sized sheets (also available on island at Target and Walmart).
Airlines will often check your stroller and car seat free and not count it against your checked baggage allowance—check with your carrier.
Swim diapers must be worn in the pool. Walmart and Target have a great selection of baby water gear—pool floats, water wings, SPF shirts/suits, hats, etc.
The beach tent in the lanai closet is a great thing to bring to the beach: a place to change diapers or let the baby nap in the shade, also protection from blowing sand.
Creature encounters
Check out the dolphins at Dolphin Quest at Hilton Waikoloa Village resort — there are about eight dolphins and it’s easy to get up close and see them interact with trainers.
Check out the endangered native Hawaiian nene birds (geese), as well as other wildlife, in a glass enclosure habitat at the south end of the Hilton Waikoloa Village resort.
Spot and hear geckos on the lanai and throughout the Vista Waikoloa complex, often around sunset. Don’t fret if one finds its way indoors — they eat bugs but don’t bite people. We just scoop them up on a piece of paper and usher them out to the lanai.
Please don’t allow children to pet or handle sea turtles, fish, geese, mongooses, geckos and other wildlife. It can harm the creatures and your child could be scratched or bitten.
Sea turtles enjoy sunning themselves on the beach at the lagoon entrance (where it flows out to sea) at the Hilton. Look for the arched concrete bridge, and turtles are often on the south bank beach. Look, but don’t touch (it’s the law.)
You’ll also find turtles on the beach south of Lava Lava Beach Club along the shoreline. It’s a great activity if you’ve got a long wait for a table at LLBC.
Family fun
Don’t miss the baby beaches on our list! Wonderful for little ones with no fear of rough waves.
Ride the monorail or cruise the canals from one end of the Hilton Waikoloa Village resort to the other. Hop on and off, ride as long as you like. It’s free and you don’t have to be a registered guest to walk resort grounds (they want your dining and shopping business). The boats usually run 2 p.m. to 10 p.m.
For school-aged kids who don’t want to be trapped at a restaurant table for an extended period, Lava Lava Beach Club gives them a great place to roam and explore the shore. Just be careful of sharp lava and wear shoes.
Check out the King’s Shops schedule for mini golf Fri-Sun, and live entertainment Tues-Thurs.